Louisiana, beyond New Orleans

BY LORRAINE WILLIAMS
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Living it up at the Lafayette Mardi Gras.
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 ention Louisiana, and you think of New Orleans. Too bad, because the rest of the sub-tropical state gets neglected. Yet it offers entertainment, history and a culture mix of French, Spanish, English and African American that makes it unique.
Louisiana's Cajun motto, "Let the good times roll", is lived out in a smorgasbord of food, music and superb scenery! Its full-blown expression at Mardi Gras Time has every community produce its own version some lasting several days with parades, flamboyant costumes, outdoor Cajun and blues concerts and zydeco rhythms.
French influence
Last year, Louisiana celebrated its 300th year of French culture as descendants of Acadian French Canadians gathered en famille to celebrate their heritage, preserved despite expulsion from the Maritimes by the British in 1764. But you don't have to be Cajun to enjoy the fun.
A good place to encounter the mysterious beauty of the swamplands and the frank friendliness of the average Louisianian, who throws a fais do-do (party) at the drop of a hat, is at the Covington/Slidell bedroom communities of New Orleans.
Specialized attractions such as the 900-acre Global Wildlife Center and the Honey Island Swamp Tour, create a spell like no other.
Step back in time
Here, Louisiana's Plantation Country's restored mansions, whose owners once produced cotton, sugar and indigo, are open for public tours. Rich traditions of those plantations are preserved in Ascension Parish, where wide bayous continue to service the unceasing barge traffic. It's not uncommon to see cattle munching on the grassy mounds bounding the bayous, designed to protect against flooding. Grand rows of live oak trees line the driveways of white plantation homes. Green shutters frame floor-length windows, designed to provide relief from humidity. Some homes have been in one family for several generations and feature original furnishings.
Touring these homes is to step back in time. The sleepy atmosphere of the south slips into your system, as you picture yourself reflecting under a magnolia tree, a mint julep in hand. Many plantations have converted out-buildings such as old kitchens and carriage-houses into self-contained B&B units where you can read on the porch listening to the soft swish of the willows.
In a state where food is tantamount to religion, Lafayette and its surrounds go in for piquant Cajun foods (not hot, but full of flavour) such as crawfish and bread pudding better than mother ever made.
Mardi Gras time permits the American yearning for royalty to be temporarily realized. Royal shades of purple are flaunted in strings of Mardi Gras beads, home and restaurant decorations. The King, Queen and Court attendants receive total adulation in a family-focused event, allowing visitors to enjoy the fun without the headaches of the New Orleans' version.
Discovery tours
Outlying town sorties are a must St. Martinville, site of the monument to Longfellow's Acadian heroine Evangeline; Avery Island, home of the original Tabasco sauce, replete with factory tour, Jungle Gardens and Bird Sanctuary; exquisite Rip Van Winkle Gardens; and Franklin, whose Historic District contains 420 structures listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
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Gone fishin' at Natchitoches, Louisiana.
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Baton Rouge will forever be associated with "The Kingfish", former Governor Huey Long. The Old State Capital's special exhibit brings his controversial life alive. At the twin cities of Alexandria and Pineville, the Tunica Biloxi Indian Museum dioramas portray the life of aboriginal tribes. Here, native Americans operate the Grand Casino Avoyelles. One of Louisiana's finest restaurants Bistro on the Bayou is located in Alexandria. Natchitoches is the site of the home featured in "Steel Magnolias". A Christmas Festival of Lights along the Cane River attracts thousands and Lasyone's Meat Pie Kitchen promises yummy offerings.
St. Francisville was settled by English-speaking Loyalists during the American Revolution. Shirley Dittloff, who operates the Barrow House B&B, has an amazing collection of Avro Arrow memorabilia inherited from her father who was chief engineer on the project. The town's unique "Button Museum", famous for its handmade button jewellery, is a must. At nearby Angola, visit the Prison Museum of Louisiana State Penitentiary (where "Dead Man Walking" was filmed). It's as close as you ever want to get to the Big House.
Gumbo, gaiety and Gaelic charm, Louisiana has it all in abundance.

Air Canada offers daily non-stop service from Toronto to New Orleans while American Airlines provides convenient connections over Los Angeles from Vancouver, Edmonton and Calgary. For more information on state attractions, call 1.800.964.3685.
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