Loaded onto four sleds, two with fuel and equipment, two with well-wrapped expeditioners, the
team set off for the start of their estimated three week trek, from Victory Point. Four Inuit drivers
and their skidoos pulled them for 9 hours across the land of King William Island – a cold and
bumpy experience. Luckily departure day was very mild at –5 degrees, and with sunshine, an
unusual combination. Apart from the collapse of one sled, carrying kit rather than people, the
team made it in good shape. The night was spent camping at Victory Point, along with the
skidoo guides. For breakfast the following morning (Sunday), they were rather unexpectedly
joined by 3 polar bears! Strolling past about 200 metres away, the bears showed a little curiosity
and were warded off by one of the drivers and his skidoo. The skidoos then left to return to
Gjoa Haven and the American Express Franklin Memorial team set off for their first full day on the route.

Walking across hard snow, travelling along the edge of the sea ice, the team covered 7.5 miles.
They still appeared to be in popular polar bear territory, with many bear tracks. As they
approached Cape Jane Franklin the tracks became increasingly evident. About 200m from
the exact point, it was agreed that to approach closer would be too risky, so they continued
on their route. They reached Gore Point by the end of the day and set up camp in windy and
cold conditions, around –30 degrees. All are well and in good spirits. Co-ordinatesof camp
are 69 degrees 75’ North, 98 degrees 26’ South.

The team set off heading slightly inland, partly to follow the route and also to move away from
the sea ice that was proving so attractive to polar bears. The weather improved and they
covered 8.5 miles today, taking them just south of Seal Bay. No further bear track sightings
throughout the day, and camp was set up at 69 degrees 28’ North, 98 degrees 32’ West.
Though it’s snowing and a fairly mild –6 degrees, the sleeping bags are proving very cosy
and warm.

The wind has been dropping but the cloud cover has remained, bringing with it certain
challenges. Leaving last night’s camp on the south side of Seal Bay the team initially headed
straight across land to avoid pressure ice. As Mark Davey explained, “It is very very difficult to
navigate due to the heavy cloud cover. We’ve been crossing land and lakes today but it is
quite challenging as it’s very difficult to distinguish between land and sea. We need to stay
close to the shore to see where we are and in some cases have had to dig down to see
whether we are on land or water.” The temperature is still a very mild –5 degrees but the
forecast is for a drop in temperature and clouds clearing with some sun. This is what the
team wants, improving vision and also giving them a chance to try out the solar charger for battery
power. Skis were used for the first time today with mixed success. Having covered 7.5 miles,
the team are camping at Le Vesconte Point, at 69 degrees 22’ North, 98 degrees 26’ West. All are well.

The team have had a good day in the Erebus Bay area, covering 8.5 miles as the crow flies but
about 9.5 including the doglegs. “By cutting across the odd headland we’ve been making good
progress” Team leader Mark Davey says. “We’ve been walking into the wind most of today
with flat light so it’s difficult to see where we are going. The snow tends to be too hard to ski
on, but the walking is reasonably good, aside from the fact that skiing got a mixed reception
from the team yesterday.” Energy levels are good, the liquorice allsorts in the day bags are
proving surprisingly popular and a bit of sunshine today enabled sat-phone battery recharging,
which is reassuring. Camp tonight is half way between the south of Two Graves Bay, and
straight overland to the river La Roquette. 69 degrees 15’ North, 98 degrees 35’ West.

Today has been a tough one with biting winds blowing constantly from one direction. Calling on
the satellite phone this evening Julian Mitchell said “We’ve covered 8.5 miles today which is
pretty good as the wind has been a real chiller. The goings been pretty tough. We’ve had cold
wind blowing into our faces, with really cold fingers and noses, so we’ve been looking at
each other, checking for signs of frostbite. It’s been biting straight into our left cheek all day
so we really hope the wind changes direction.” Having set up camp and had the first of
several hot soups, the team were beginning to feel much more comfortable. Camp was set on
a jutting headland in Erebus Bay, at 69 degrees 11’ North, 98 degrees 51’ West. Tomorrow they
will begin to cross land heading towards Terror Bay.

Setting off this morning the weather looked reasonable, walking directly south from camp across
land heading towards the top of Irving Island. After about an hour the team were hit by a
snowstorm. “It was a complete white-out, snowing heavily in our faces with zero visibility”
said Mark Davey. “Navigation was very difficult and for the next three hours the only points of
reference were ourselves. At 2.45 conditions were so bad we decided to camp. It took all
eight of us to put up each tent.” Inside the tent was fine, though there are reports some team
members are beginning to smell very like musk ox. Despite the conditions and early halt, they
have covered 5 miles, stopping at 69 degrees 07’ North, 98 degrees 50’ West.

Today the team walked the furthest yet, covering 9.95 miles. The target of 10 miles a day is still
beckoning but getting closer. Conditions were not easy. “We had the wind behind us, blowing
very strong at over 40 miles an hour. Which is OK when we’re walking but makes stopping
difficult – we all get covered in snow” Mark Davey explained. The wind chill factor lowered the
temperature today to around –29 degrees. “It was tricky putting the tents up, we did have a
broken polebut have managed to fix it”. The route is due south heading across land for the tip
of Irving Island in Terror Bay.

Last night there was ice on the inside of the tent and the cold wind hasn’t let up today. Rebecca
Harris said “We’ve reached Irving Island tonight after a very cold 9.4 miles. Both Martin and
Ralph have had a touch of frostnip on their noses, well tended by Dr Mark.” They are all in
good spirits despite being “fed up with eating cod”. There seems to have been an overload
of the cod pie order in the freeze dried food. Hopes of a change with a caribou meal haven’t
come to anything yet with the only sightings being of caribou droppings. Based on
Irving Island, tonight the team are at 68 degrees 47’ North, 98 degrees 40’ West.

It was very windy this morning and taking down the tents was difficult and took time, so the team
got away quite late. “Despite the late start, and an attempt at skiing which didn’t go too well,
we’ve covered 8.5 miles today, so faster than we were at the start of the expedition” Mark
Davey said. Local wildlife sightings have started to pick up. Last night a ptarmigan wandered
into camp and had a look around. Then as they were travelling along today “two caribou
came very close, watching us and looking beautiful”. Freeze dried cod pie is obviously not
that bad. It’s a bitter night with wind chill temperatures of –32, and the team are camping on
the sea ice at 68 degrees 45’ North, 98 degrees 32’ West.

The cold continues to take its toll. Kees and Julian have a bit of frostnip on their fingers, though
they assure everyone it’s only a little bit and well treated. “Everyone has very cold hands in the
morning, except for Mark Davey who seems to be oblivious” said Julian Mitchell. “Once we
get going it’s OK, the windsuits are keeping us warm.” The day started off fairly chilly, with
–27 degrees windchill, but cleared for a nicer afternoon as the team made their way across
Washington Bay, crossing over many pressure ridges in the ice. They’re camped on
sea ice at 68 degrees 41’ North, 98 degrees 15’ West.

A very brief call tonight as the satellite phone doesn’t seem to be working well. There has been
a complete white out today, with snow, so no solar charger either. The wind chill is slightly
less at –26 degrees. Mark Davey reports that everybody is well, and they have continued their
way into the Simpson Strait, covering a good distance of 9.5 miles. They are 5 miles short of
Gladman Point, where there is now a deserted old Distant Early Warning station built during
the Cold War. Camp is at 68 degrees 38’ North, 97 degrees 55’ West.

The satellite phone is fully charged and working - whatever was breaking transmission
yesterday has disappeared. Today the team have been walking through the Simpson Strait for
8 hours, covering 9 miles. “We’re in the region of Beaver Island” said Mark Davey “sitting right
in the middle of the North West Passage shipping lane. There are lots of channel markers
so it’s difficult to work out exactly where we are.” Last night the team were visited by an Arctic
fox, and the tent parties did a bit of swapping around – just for a change of scene! Tonight
they’re at 68 degrees 34’ North, 97 degrees 36’ West.

Today the team passed Peglar Point and reached Peabody Point to set up camp. “We’ve done
9.35 miles today. We keep trying for 10 but have to do doglegs to follow the Franklin route,
otherwise we’d go in a straight line and get there faster!” said Rebecca, adding “We’ve
walked past lots of buoys on the Canadian coastline. Light relief came in the form of Julian
offering to play us a tune on one of the buoys this afternoon!” They’ve reached 68 degrees
31’ North, 97 degrees 17’ West.

The temperature is a very mild 3 degrees today, which has made the snow very soft. “The snow
is melting and we’re getting wet. We’re very slow across the ground in these conditions and
skiing is now the preferred option” said Mark Davey. “Looking out for signs of life but nothing,
apart from a couple of aeroplanes flying over - which were considered exciting under the
circumstances!” They’re camped alongside a pressure ridge, about 6 ft high, which runs
for miles. Climbing over it this evening, it gave a very deep rumble, giving everyone a bit of a
fright! 68 degrees 29’ N, 97 degrees 00’ W.

“We’ve pushed further than usual, it’s been the hardest day so far” says Rebecca Harris. “It’s
been difficult to see as everything is so white and bright, you can’t tell whether you’re going up
or down, so there’ve been a few minor pulk mishaps. When you fall over the snow is so soft
it’s very difficult to right yourself”. Julian has changed his socks for the first time, Dr Mark
is still to change his! “I was longing for cheese,” said Rebecca, “but I’ve gone off it now.” After
9.75 miles, they are at 68 degrees 27’ North, 96 degrees 38’ West.

It’s a very windy day with gusts up to 50 km/h blowing Northwest and not much visibility. “We’ve
skied all day with the wind behind us, which has helped us push along to cover 9.2 miles
today. Very difficult to put the tent up again, but we’re now inside and enjoying the first of
some hot soup,” said Mark Davey. Conversation is very difficult in these conditions and
travelling in each other’s tracks, so each person has to find a way to amuse themselves.
Ralph has decided to reform the British tax system to keep his mind busy! They’re camped
on Todd Island, at 68 degrees 26’ N, 96 degrees 17’ West.

Spirits are high as the team feel the end is coming into sight! “We’ve had the wind blowing snow
in our faces all day which made it hard going. The last two miles of our 9.7 miles we followed
a skidoo trail which made it feel more like the M1!” said Rebecca Harris. Tomorrow the team
will begin the final push towards Starvation Cove. To empathise with the original explorers
“we’ve decided to try without any daypacks of food during the day to see what happens. We
normally finish the daypack before midday anyway!” Tonight’s camp is at Richardson Point,
68 degrees 18’ N, 96 degrees 25’ W.